It's funny how my life is defined by 'before Durras'and 'After Durras' like it's some higher being of spiritual rightness or whatever, haha. It's true though, Durras has become a huge part of my life and I know it sounds cheesy, but I really don't know what I'd do if I didn't have that escape from everyone. It was fun, we (for now, Matt and I) caught some massive waves and I learnt a bit more about bodyboarding from observation and trial-and-error (note; trial and error is defined here as yes...yes...no *dumped*) I love it. There's this...I don't know, power, when you're in the surf. Not you though, the ocean. This force of nature that can bring you down on your knees in seconds. Sets of 8 foot waves would roll in, one after another, while we'd all try desperatly to either catch, or not be killed, by the monsters. But when you do, I always make some huge mistake of not pulling out quick enough, when you're flying through the air for a second before being caught by a crashing wave. Bliss.
I guess it's everything about Durras. How everyone gets along and talks to one another, how much gossip there is. How everyone accepts you for who you are there, not for what you are here. At Durras, it's a clean slate. I love how, one conversation flows to another, and suddenly, you're talking about something completely different. How you can make racist jokes, because we're all white *seriously, we might as well be called KKK :P) But I guess what I love most is the peace that's there. The lazy holiday attitude. I love it.
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